No Blarney here

21 June 2007

We didn't hang around in Kilkenny as we had decided to explore the rugged SW corner of the Ireland. We shot straight past Cork - never mind Blarney Castle or the Blarney Stone - anyway, who knows what would have happened if I had've kissed it. Speaking of Kil's we entertained ourselves making up names for new places called Kil-something. Kilkeith, Kilcathy, Kilcolin, Kilkatrina, Kilclarky. Some of them even exist so we found out! And it doesn't have to have a "c" sound after the Kil so we found out. Killeach, Killarney on it goes. They even have a straight up "Kill" - never mind a name to go with it. We thought it might mean "mountain" but I found out it described the second most common feature in Ireland - a church!

The Irish are religious. We climbed an amazing pass on the Beara Peninsula - Healy's Pass and on the top of the pass there's a statue of Jesus on the cross, with Mary in toe and some other saint I couldn't recognise. Grottos with statues abound; from the urban street to a spot in what seems like a complete wilderness - they sure are a pious lot.

Back on our odyssey we lunched on sausages and bread at a food market in Kinsale on the harbour before arriving at Bantry - another seaside spot - fishing and tourism being the main industries. I was excited as our B&B was out of town - on a working farm and was described on the internet as 'luxury accommodation' with 'home baking' for breakfast. Ha! It was a converted garage and the TV just barely worked. Breakfast was fine but not home baked as advertised. I saw a story about how the star rating system for accommodation has lost credibility in Ireland - too true. Oh well, the dog was friendly there at least.

We drove off to explore the amazing Beara Peninsula and stopped enroute to check out Glengarriff Nature Reserve. It was gorgeous - a true rainforest - very wet - ancient and cloaked in moss - the canopy of oaks sheltered us from the persistent rain. Despite the rain we did the River Walk along a braided watercourse, every colour of green laid before us. We were moved by the atmosphere and beauty of the place. Onward to the Beara and the rain just would not leave us but the breathtaking views compensated - we basically did a figure of eight across the peninsula, eager to explore every inch. Healy's Pass took us over the top and middle on a tiny, winding mountain road made for horse and cart and not yet 'improved' thank goodness. No tourist buses here! Sheep were are only traveling companions - walking at times on the road for a few hundred metres in front of the car. Aside from the crucifix statue at the top, the county changes from Cork to Kerry and there is garbled sign that tells us about coffins being slid over the county border - not sure what that was all about. The road was a work project when the famine was happening.
Further down the road we drive out to a Buddhist meditation centre recommended highly by Tri. The road/driveway is blocked right at the end by (would you believe it at this remote location) - road works! We manage to get out to the cliffs near the retreat centre and enjoy a short respite from the rain gazing out across jagged rocks to a brooding sea. An unparalleled setting for contemplation.
We eventually find our way to Allihies where the road is too narrow to accommodate buses again (YAY). We buy a sandwich in the shop and head down to the car park overlooking the beach for lunch. A pod of dolphins entertain us with their antics tossing fish out of the water - playing with their food, Ric quips! Tri later asked me if I saw St Patrick's footprint somewhere there - apparently that's where he landed when he arrived in Ireland from France - sadly we missed it. I read about that St Patrick was purported to have said - 'Any snake that wants to stay in Ireland, please raise your right hand'. Very funny!

Next day and we were off to the Ring of Kerry. Enroute we stop for a real coffee at Kenmare. The quest for a decent coffee has been long and difficult one! Mostly unsuccessful though, including in the UK. We drank half a cup rated 4 out of 10 and wandered down the main street. Alarmed we noticed the army - at least 10 soldiers complete with machine guns had arrived, seriously checking out everyone in the street. We stop and gawped. A nearby range rover filled with more soldiers with machine guns pulled up next to me. They were laughing and having a joke. I stepped forward to ask them through the open window what was going on? They told me they were guarding the armored vehicle delivering money to the bank! I ask if I could take a photo - at first they say no - but then they tell me to stand back in the cover of their vehicle and get one. It's all very good natured.

Ric and I opt for the short version of the Ring of Kerry and head over Moll's Pass towards Killarney - the scenery again takes our breath away - lakes in the distance with heaving geology over our shoulders. At the top of the gap there is inexplicably a shop - tourist buses out the front - I am about to unceremoniously speed past but I notice it is an Avoca shop - gorgeous stuff, clothes and great food - too good to miss even on the top of a mountain. We get some takeaway salads and Irish brown bread and beat the rush of the buses - head down the road and stopped near a precipice to dine in the car. Magnificent!

Almost at Killarney we notice Killarney National Park and despite the hissing rain stop for a quick walk. We discovered an amazing waterfall with loads of people walking in the torrential downpour. I guess you just have to ignore the rain in Ireland and get on with it. Killarney NP is around 10,000 hectares and is Ireland's first national park to be declared. There are 3 lakes, a mountain range and a series of heritage buildings including the Victorian mansion Muckross House; a lot packed into a relatively small space. We visited Muckross House (built 1843 - restored in the 1960's) the next day and did the tour - an amazing grand old building with 25 bedrooms. Queen Victoria and family came to stay a few months before Albert died. She gave 6 years notice of her impending arrival and stayed just 2 days, sleeping in a bed she brought from home. Apparently she sent heaps of wealthy families to the wall as they completely renovated their homes for her with great extravagances they couldn't afford like they did here. A sideboard took 4 years to carve in Italy - heavy elaborate drapes were brought in from France and they had to install a fire escape - Victoria was paranoid about being caught in a fire.

On the plane on the way to Ireland we noticed that Riverdance was in Killarney while we were there so we shouted ourselves tickets and absolutely loved the show. Both of us have been practising our Irish dancing ever since - aisles at supermarkets seem to provide the necessary amount of space. Cathy & Ric

PS I am a bit behind with the diary - please forgive me but you will be getting peppered over the next couple of days. Finding internet has been a challenge - next time I'll definitely travel with a laptop.